The Not-So-Ugly American

My wife is a classical musician, and loves vintage, well-crafted, and exotic instruments. Years ago, while visiting a small town in Belgium, we discovered a museum of rare and unique antique music-making apparatus, maintained in a large, centuries old, three-storey house. We strolled up the flower-bordered cobbled path to the front porch, opened the squeaky entry door, and walked into the slightly musty-smelling foyer, where an odd assortment of stringed, woodwind, and percussion instruments was displayed on shelves, stands, the walls, and the floor. Twenty feet further into the house was a waist-high glass cabinet containing smaller instruments, tuning paraphernalia, and some yellowing sheet music. To the right was a doorway swagged with a thick, gold, tasseled rope to encourage visitors to wait in the foyer until the entrance fee was collected; the doorway opened to a grand room with many more fabulous instruments.

Alone in the foyer, we examined and discussed the display pieces for a couple minutes until a man in his seventies shuffled into the room and behind the cabinet. He bent over, extracted a dark metal moneybox from a lower shelf, placed the box on top of the cabinet, and opened the lid. Removing the wallet from my pocket and approaching the man, I commented, “You have some very interesting instruments.” He looked intently at me for a moment, and then asked in a French accent, “Are you American?” I responded, “Yes.” Suddenly, he slammed the lid back over the moneybox. We were completely startled, and I could feel a warm flush coming over my face. “In my museum, Americans do not pay!” he sternly proclaimed.

The old man expressed to us the gratitude he still held for America and the for the soldiers who freed his country from the Nazis during World War II, and how he owed his existence to the sacrifices of that Army of Liberation. Offering Americans free admission to his establishment was the least he could do in repayment. He unhooked the gold rope and happily ushered us into the next room, where he wished us a pleasant visit.

An hour later, having finished our tour, we were once again in the foyer, thanking our host for the enjoyable and unexpected experience. “May I help you with anything before you go?” he asked. “Yes. We would like to visit another museum in your town, but do not know where it is located,” I replied, and then told him the museum’s name. “I will take you there,” he cheerfully offered. We all moved outside and he locked the front door; we walked down a side path and along several small streets until we arrived at the museum building. The man said a few words in French to a young woman at the entrance fee counter, and she smiled, handed us a museum guide, and bid us, “Avoir une bonne visite.” We shook the old man’s hand, thanked him, and said goodbye.

I felt especially proud to be an American that day. The old man seemed even prouder.

The Same, Only Different

Experiencing a country’s regional customs and celebrations can enliven any journey. Many regions of Europe were formed from amalgamations of small towns that joined together for trade, for protection, because of a common religion or similar language, or for other mutually beneficial reasons. It is not uncommon for the customs and dialect of one area to be strikingly different from those of another lying just a short distance away (recognizing that today’s “short” distances using modern transportation may have taken weeks to traverse on foot hundreds of years ago). Traditions borne from the historical formations of the regions can offer outsiders remarkable and insightful glimpses into a living past, helping to preserve the character and flavor of a place, and to make rural travel enjoyable and interesting beyond the scenery.

While visiting Pfronten-Berg, Germany (in the far south of Bavaria, near King Ludwig’s famous Neuschwanstein alpine castle and the Austrian border), we saw a poster on a street side bulletin board, directing us to the Engel, a popular local restaurant, promising delicious home-style cooking and a Trachtenfest [traditional singing, dancing, and music making performed in costume]. By the time we arrived at the restaurant for the festivities, quite a crowd of other visitors and locals had assembled in the restaurant’s great rustic dining room, leaving a scant few unoccupied seating places. In Germany, large dinner tables are customarily shared with other guests, so we squeezed ourselves onto a dark wooden bench among eight other happy, hungry culture seekers…all German couples vacationing from the central and northern parts of the country.

Having traveled extensively throughout Germany and Austria, our conversational German is not Goethe Institut quality, but it is reasonable, and we are not afraid to speak; most people are very tolerant of foreigners attempting to use their language, and when “mehr langsam, bitte” [more slowly, please] is requested, a German speaker typically obliges to give the foreign listener more translation time. Surrounded by the clinking of thick glass beer mugs and of forks and knives on heavy ceramic dinner plates, and the heavy aroma of sauerkraut, fried potatoes, and broiled Wurst and other meats, we all chatted about our families, professions, and towns…and about politics (a German’s “favorite” subject). It is amazing how much cold, frothy Hefeweizen beer can be consumed on a warm summer evening while making and enjoying new friends.

Finally, the entertainment began as four young women wearing pink flowered aprons, long black skirts, and feather-studded green felt hats sat around a large oak table playing a lively melody on zither, guitar, flute, and harmonica. Next, the Festfeuhrer [Master of Ceremonies] stepped up to the microphone in his decorative, green and brown suede knee-length lederhosen with deer antler buttons, and slowly crooned an old, regional ballad in his low guttural voice; the song was a bit risqué, and my “Cheshire cat” grin widened with each new verse. When the singer concluded, applause and laughter erupted from the crowd, and it was obvious that the audience liked what it heard.

As the room quieted down, and the entertainers prepared for their folk dance number, a woman who lived in Würzburg (a city located about two hundred miles north) leaned across the table and asked, “Verstehen Sie das Lied?” [Do you understand the song?]. Sheepishly confessing to her that only about seventy percent of the words were successfully recognized, she seemed intent on offering me the language assistance to ensure a complete cultural experience. To my surprise and amusement, though, she asked ME to explain the song to HER; the singer’s accent and dialect were “so strange and foreign”, that she barely understood a word. I had to smile, because my wife and I were supposed to be the Auslanders [foreigners] at this event. Thanks to my Würzburger friend’s request, my cultural experience was MORE than complete; I never expected a German to ask me to translate German into German.

The "Other" Salzburg, Austria

Salzburg, Austria is beautiful, interesting, and full of culture. But, after you visit Mozart’s home, attend a dinner and concert, and take one of the many “Sound of Music” tours, it is time to depart the city for some truly memorable experiences.

Austria’s state of Salzburger Land lies amidst the finest scenery to be found in the country, and offers impressive sights and activities to enhance your spring and summer visits. Following are easy day trips to the south and then west of Salzburg, certain to stir your senses and enrich your photo collection:

Hallein/Bad Dürrnberg Salzbergbau Salt Mine – Salt has been extracted from this region for thousands of years (Salzburg means “Salt Fortress”), and was a source of great wealth. We donned coveralls and rode a steep, splinter free wooden slide into the depths of the mine to start the tour. Displayed and explained are the antique tools and mechanisms that transported the salt to the surface, and you quickly appreciate the well-lit workplaces we have today. Half way through our visit, a signpost showed we were crossing under the Austrian-German border. (http://Salzwelten.at/cont/Salzwelten/en_Salzwelten_home.aspx)

Hohenwerfen Fortress – Looming above the town of Werfen, this imposing 11th Century tourable fortress contains a fantastic collection of antique weaponry and a museum of falconry and medieval clothing. Sitting on the courtyard grass, we enjoyed a “Birds of Prey” exhibition, featuring falcons, hawks, eagles, and owls in free flight above our heads; the handlers, dressed in period clothing, lend an authenticity to this ancient sport. The path up to the fortress is steep, but transportation is available from the lower parking area. (www.Salzburg-Burgen.at/en/Werfen)

Eisriesenwelt Ice Cave – Ice Giant World (high above Werfen) is the world’s largest ice cave system. Water seeping through the cave ceiling froze to produce extraordinary formations and galleries through which tours are conducted. Many of the formations are backlit with colorful lighting to create beautiful effects through the translucent ice, and you will marvel at the effort required to cut and fit the hundreds of stair steps in the cave. The entrance is reached via cable car or bus (from Werfen), private vehicle, or scenic walk. Wear warm clothing, sturdy shoes, and gloves. (http://www.eisriesenwelt.at/)

Liechtensteinklamm Gorge – Just west of St. Johann im Pongau, a wild mountain stream carved a deep narrow canyon; in some places the opposing walls are just a few feet apart. The stream rages through the gorge, cascading down the rocks, and waterfalls abound. A wooden footpath crisscrosses the stream and provides convenient access along its length. Wear sturdy shoes and bring a plastic poncho to protect you from the constant mist. (http://www.liechtensteinklamm.at/)

Grossglockner Mountain and Hochalpenstrasse Roadway – Follow the signs south of Zell am See to Fusch and the Hochalpenstrasse [High Alpine Road]. This toll road is one of the most beautiful scenic routes in the world, rising to more than 8,200 feet, traverses the Hohe Tauern National Park, and continues toward Italy. Grossglockner [Tall Bell], the highest mountain in Austria, and Pasterze Glacier can be viewed from the Franz-Josefs-Höhe rest stop, where food and restrooms are available. Wear warm clothing to protect you from the altitude and winds. (http://www.grossglockner.com/)

Krimmler Waterfall – Outside the village of Krimmel flows Europe’s tallest waterfall, dropping almost 1,250 feet in three stages, with a deafening roar. It is an easy walk to its base, where you will experience a tremendous volume of water and perpetual mist. You can also drive to the top of the falls. Fed by a glacier, the falls freeze over in winter. (http://www.wasserfaelle-krimml.at/)

All the attractions are accessible from the same set of roads (travel distances and times are from Salzburg):

From Salzburg:

• Travel south on A10 to Hallein/Bad Bad Dürrnberg and the Salt Mine (12 miles, 25 minutes).
• Continue south on A10 to Werfen and the Fortress and Ice Cave (29 miles, 30 minutes).
• Continue south on A10, then south on B311 toward Bischofshofen, then to St. Johann im Pongau and Liechtensteinklamm (40 miles, 45 minutes).
• Continue west on B311 toward Zell am See and south on L271 to Fusch an der Glocknerstrasse and the Hochalpenstrasse (62 miles, 1 hour 15 minutes).
• Continue west on B311 toward Zell am See, west on B168 to Mittersill, then west on B165 to Krimml and the Waterfall (91 miles, 2 hours 10 minutes).

The Storybook Villages of Alsace, France

Every visit to France, the pleasant Alsace-Lorraine region draws us to wile away a few days with its delicious local wines, hearty meals (thanks to its Germanic past), friendly people (who will speak French or German with you), and beautifully preserved, pastel-painted medieval and Renaissance villages. Alsace-Lorraine is divided into five Départements, and our favorite is Haut-Rhin, bordered on the east by the Rhine River and Germany’s Black Forest.

Colmar, Haut-Rhin’s main town, is simple to navigate, with ample parking, and the Vieille Ville or historic city, predominantly a pedestrian zone, is easily traversed (the tourist office offers maps). Return to the 16th Century while meandering among the colorful half-timbered houses, shops, and restaurants, and be sure to see the wonderfully decorated façades of the Koifhüs, Maison des Têtes, and Maison Pfister. In Petite Vinise or Little Venice flow the canals once used by the wine merchants to transport their beverages and, for your most leisurely visit, boat trips are offered from the Quartier des Tanneurs.

A few miles south of Colmar is the tiny ancient village of Eguisheim, whose geranium-adorned half-timbered houses and cobblestone passages are laid out in three concentric circles around a unique octagonal feudal castle and Renaissance fountain. Eguisheim is very picturesque, especially in the evening when lit by street lanterns; in late spring, look for storks nesting on the rooftops. As “Alsace’s Wine Birthplace” (thanks to 4th Century Romans), vineyards surround Eguisheim, and you can sample the resultant grands crus or fine wine in several vintner-owned courtyards found about the village; signs stating “Caves” and “Dégustation” point the way. For a real meal, try the regional dish, Choucroute (a mixture of sauerkraut, boiled potatoes, sausage, and ham); it is always a much-anticipated part of our pilgrimage. A Wine Growers’ Festival is held the fourth weekend of August.

Nine miles northwest of Colmar is the beautiful walled village of Riquewihr, and where the wall ends, the flower-trimmed vineyards begin. With its cobblestone alleys, flower-bedecked half-timbered houses and quiet private courtyards, ancient watchtowers and ramparts, and manicured gardens, bring plenty of film or digital memory for your camera. Riquewihr is also a place to sample the local wines and cuisine. For history buffs, the village has a Postal History museum, and the Tour des Voleurs museum in the upper part of town features a medieval torture chamber.

Three miles northeast of Riquewihr poses the very pretty and photogenic half-timbered village of Ribeauvillé. Although wine is extremely important and opportunities abound to enjoy it, Ribeauvillé is the “Capital of Kougelhopf,” a regional almond flavored cake, and the restaurant within the Pfifferhüs is a good place to enjoy the Alsacienne specialties. On top of a hill, beyond the vineyards, three ruined 12th and 13th Century castles watch over the village and offer an excellent panorama. A Wine Festival is held the next to the last weekend of July, and a Minstrels’ Festival is held on the first Sunday of September.

Side Trips:

• Château du Haut-Koenigsbourg – An imposing, magnificently restored medieval fortified castle high atop a hill. Tours every day except January 1, May 1, and December 25. (19 miles from Colmar, north of Saint-Hippolyte: http://www.haut-koenigsbourg.com/)
• Jardins des Papillons – Wander among exotic butterflies in an enclosed environment. Open April through October. (Hunawihr, between Riquewihr and Ribeauvillé: http://www.jardinsdespapillons.fr/)
• Parc des Cigognes – Stork breeding park and wildlife preserve. Open March through mid-November. (Hunawihr, between Riquewihr and Ribeauvillé: http://www.cigogne-loutre.com/)

Lodging:

• Bed and Breakfast: Madame Dirringer, 11 Rue Riesling, Eguisheim – Telephone: (33) 03 89 41 71 67 (speaks French and German)
• Affordable: Hôtel Le Mandelberg (Mittelwihr: http://Monsite.Wanadoo.fr/HotelMandelberg.fr)
• Budget: Bonzai Hôtel (Colmar/Houssen: http://www.bonsai-hotel.tm.fr/), Hotel Formule 1 (Colmar: http://www.hotelformule1.com/)

It's Easy to Save Money on Rental Cars

The most convenient way to explore Europe is by automobile, but you don’t have to spend your children’s inheritance on rental cars. By following some of the simple tips below, you can save hundreds of dollars and put them to more enjoyable uses:

1. Do some price comparisons using the Websites identified below.
A rental car’s cost depends upon where (and sometimes when) you secure the car and the amount of time you possess it. Local supply and demand sets a car’s base price, before any additional taxes or fees. If you plan to visit several countries in no required order, arrive in the one with the least expensive cars; 30 days in a compact car from the Frankfurt, Germany airport is $310 less than from the Luxembourg airport.

2. Be flexible when choosing the pick-up location.
Typically, airports and train stations are the costliest locations to obtain vehicles. If feasible, reserve your car at one of the rental agency’s city offices; oftentimes, no taxes or other service fees are levied on the base price and the car can conveniently be returned to the airport without a charge (understand the return procedure before leaving the airport to fetch the car). Renting our example compact car from a Frankfurt city office, rather than from Frankfurt airport saves you $180; even after paying for a taxi, you have enough money for gasoline, dinner, and a hotel room.

3. If the car will be returned in another country, ask the agency if a vehicle from that country is available on their lot.
Typically, the one-way drop-off fee (around $150 for a pick-up in Frankfurt and a drop-off in Paris) is waived because you are doing them a favor. Ask about the return procedure at the final destination.

4. Pay with a major credit card and decline the Collision Damage Waiver (CDW) insurance.
The CDW insurance from the agency’s Frankfurt city office for our example compact car costs almost $400. Credit cards typically provide free insurance coverage for 30 consecutive days (be sure to review your card’s benefits disclosures). To safely insure for more than 30 days, make several reservations for no more than 30 days each, return the car after each reservation, and use a second card for the next rental period (or go without a car for a day, and use the first card again).

5. Consider a short-term lease for around 30 days or more.
Auto Europe has partnered with the Peugeot car company of France, offering non-European residents factory-new vehicles for up to 6 months of possession. The “Open Europe” program requires at least a month of advance reservation and the return of lease documents (15 minutes of effort). Your car is selected from a wide range of models, shipped to a number of European arrival cities, fully insured, tax-free, and may be driven within countries often restricted by rental car agencies. The delivery fee within France is free, but is distance-based when the car is shipped to other countries. In France, a compact car can be leased for 45 days for $230 less than renting the same vehicle in Paris. If delivered to Frankfurt, the same lease car is $310 more than a comparable city rental (because of the delivery fee); the lease becomes more cost-effective after about 70 days. Remember that gasoline and your time are not cheap, so the convenience of an uninterrupted, fully insured, drive-anywhere car may still be worth the extra lease money.

I have used and recommend the following car rental Websites:

• Auto Europe (http://www.autoeurope.com/)
• Orbitz (http://www.orbitz.com/)
• Travelocity (http://www.travelocity.com/)
• Sixt (http://www.sixt.com/).

Vacation Like The Europeans

With a cup of tea and marmalade slathered toast, I relax on my balcony, draw in the cool fresh air, and gaze across the Isar River in wonder at the snow-capped Bavarian Alps beyond the meadows of wild flowers, while mother birds busily tend their chirping hatchlings in the trees above. Few hotels can boast this kind of atmosphere. But, this isn’t a hotel…it’s a 600 square foot, two-bedroom apartment, and costs about $75 a day from April to August!

Our furnished unit has a full bathroom, kitchen, and livingroom/diningroom, and is a few blocks from the center of historic Mittenwald, Germany (20 miles north of Innsbruck, Austria). Colorful murals adorn the building facades in this village Goethe described as “a living picture book”. Bavaria’s stringed instrument manufacturing began here in 1684, and artisans are seen carving and assembling their traditional creations as you explore the town. Stores selling woodcarvings, textiles, jewelry, and touristy things, and the violin and local history museum entertain you until you settle into a cozy restaurant or café for a delicious regional meal. A short hike finds Lautersee Lake and its pasture, highlighted by a picturesque tiny chapel and grazing sheep and goats.

For over 25 years, we have vacationed like many Europeans, shunning commercial establishments and choosing private accommodations, instead. We save money, enjoy conveniences and hospitality unavailable in typical hotels, and stay where no hotels exist. From simple rooms, to apartments, to farmhouses, to villas, each accommodation reflects the personalities of the owner and the locale.

In Austria, Germany, and northeastern Switzerland, people offer “Zimmer frei,” and “Fremdenzimmer” [available rooms, usually with breakfast] or “Ferienwohnung” and “Ferienhaus” [vacation homes] to visitors; a Zimmer is typically booked by the day, and a vacation home for three days or more. Private accommodations are so popular in some regions that the business of providing them has surpassed cottage industry status (no pun intended). Hosts pride themselves on the cleanliness and comfort of their facilities, and there are thousands of places to stay.

Many lodgings can be stumbled upon (e.g., advertised by a sign on the road or in front of a building, a listing board in the village center, a local tourist office, or someone in the know), but the Internet and E-Mail make it easy to find a place before leaving home. Websites let you search for properties on interactive maps, view photos, compare amenities, check availability and prices, query managers, and reserve dwellings. Some Websites index properties by popular categories (e.g., Skiing, Golfing, Mountains, Beach), and some even list hotels.

These tips will ensure positive experiences:

1. Have flexible occupancy dates.
2. Ensure sheets and towels are provided (e.g., Inclusive: Bettwäsche, Handtücher).
3. Check availability. The Websites are not airline systems; listings may not update immediately after bookings. For clarity, state arrival and departure dates, and abbreviate month names (e.g., Ankommen: 29 Apr - Abreisen: 5 Mai); Mai is the only exception to English abbreviations.
4. A range of seasonal prices may be listed, so request the total cost, including tourist taxes, cleaning fees, etc.: Bitte, schicken Sie mir die Endsumme, inclusive Mwst, Kurtaxe, Endreinigung, usw.
5. Query several alternate properties at the same time, because responses may take a day or so, considering time zones and other factors. Choose one positive response and promptly book it; politely express regrets to the others.
   

Once you liberate yourself from the hotel mentality, you may never choose that path again.

I recommend the following Websites:

Multiregional:

• http://www.vacationvillas.net/
• http://www.tiscover.com/
• http://www.urlaubstage.de/ (knowledge of German is required)
• http://www.staypoland.com/
• http://www.gites-de-france.fr/ (knowledge of French is helpful)

Regional:

• http://www.mittenwald.de/